For Sale!

Here's an album with photos of the car as it is today.

Here's an album with my work.

Here's an album with the previous owner's work.

Earlier posts in this blog give a bit more story to the work that I've done.

1974 BMW 2002 - street/track prepped  $14,000 OBO
Contact me at 206-953-0028

Engine:
1987 BMW M20 (325i) bored/stroked
Stock head recut and line-honed
172deg Ireland Engineering regrind cam
Oversized eccentrics
New valves, seals, guides, and springs
Block bored, honed, and decked
Ross forged pistons 9.75:1-CR (Ireland Engineering spec)
Eta 81mm crank-honed
New crank and rod bearings
Magnafluxed
final displacement 2785cc
MSDS shorty headers
Magnaflow 2.5" custom exhaust
about 8K miles
Polished, then sanded intake manifold and valve cover

Cooling:
AFCO Scirocco aluminum radiator
AFCO aluminum expansion tank
New thermostat
12" Summit pusher fan (on all the time)

Engine Management/fuel:
Megasquirt-I running MSNS-extra w/spark
V2.2 board
Relay board
Fan-control circuit (not installed yet)
Innovative wide-band O2 sensor/controller
MSD-6A and Blaster-SS coil
Ireland Engineering plug wires/NGK plugs
Timing is set conservatively (dyno time should yield ~15% more hp)
New OE 318IS fuel pump
Dynoed 19lb injectors
Fram fuel filter

Drivetrain:
European E21 323i 5spd OD transmission
Exedy Stage 1 clutch and pressure plate
New clutch slave
12lb flywheel
Shortened/balanced driveshaft
New 6-bolt guibo
3.91:1 LSD (rebuilt and set to 80% lock at Cantrell Motorsports)
New wheel bearings front/back
Solid polyurethane differential mounts

Front Suspension:
325lb coils
shortened strut housings
Ireland Engineering Rabbit bilstein inserts
Ground Control adjustable perches
Ground Control adjustable camber/castor plates
new OE balljoints
Ireland Engineering swaybar
New Polyurethane bushings throughout

Rear Suspension:
Ireland Engineering Stage II springs (325lb) -1 coil cut
Bilstein sport dampers
19mm 'blue' swaybar
2 dot OE spring pads
Solid subframe mounts (flipped to correct camber)

Curb weight: 2212 lbs w/half tank of gas
Weight dist:53/47(f/r)

Steering:
Close ratio steering box ($1000)
New center rod
New steering links
New ball joints

Front Brakes:
Ireland Engineering Volvo upgrade
New brembo rotors
Mintex sport pads
SS braided lines
New OE master cylinder


Rear Brakes:
New performance shoes
New cylinders
New stock size drums
Stainless steel braided lines
Tilton brake bias valve (for future disc upgrade)


Wheels, tires:
Ronal R8s, 15x7, ET 28, powdercoated dark grey, like new
Toyo Proxy T1-S, 195/50R15


Top End Performance battery brace (welded in)
Rear harness bar (Cantrell Motorsports)

Interior:
Corbeau sport seats
Schroth harnesses (Profi II-6 for driver, Rally for passenger)
Back seat is configurable - seats plus Corbeau harnesses for passengers or half cage.
Custom bolt-in half cage with welded mounting pads (Cantrell Motorsports)
Completely rewired (Cantrell Motorsports)
VDO instruments:
Oil pres.
Water temp
Fuel level
Tach
Speedo (w/digital sender)
Sparco pedal covers
Nardi leather steering wheel
New trunk boards covered in vinyl
Optima redtop batt in trunk
Floors patched and sealed.
Almost :) crack-free dash

Exterior:
10-year old Malaga(ish) paint - looks great at 10 feet (just polished)
Ebay H4 headlights
Early bumpers (front not pictured, but included)
Ireland Engineering FRP hood (mod'd for cooling, then re-modded back to original)
Zender trunk spoiler
Shaved reflectors and lower trim
Ireland Engineering front airdam


These extras go with the car at $14K.  They're negotiable otherwise.
Carpet kit (new, never installed)
Laptop for Megasquirt
Steel hood and hinges
Air/Fuel mixture gauge
Fuel pressure gauge
Parts for intermittent wiper upgrade, including correct relay
Inertia reel seatbelts for front seats
4 point harnesses for back seats
Tan vinyl front door panels
4 Toyo Proxies
Blue rear seat in decent shape
Oil cooler, lines, and filter mount adapter
Early front bumper

Sale FAQ

Why?
I bought this car to go to the track with a friend... who subsequently moved to CA.  His departure made me rethink the whole thing and I've decided I'd rather spend the time on a mountain bike.

What work does it need?
Nothing strictly necessary, but here is the list of things that I would do next...

• Sand and skim coat the fiberglass hood.  Give it a real paint job.  It looks like crap now, but you can throw it around with one hand.
• Replace valve cover gasket to resolve small leak. (A new gasket and rocker shaft plugs are included)
• Plumb the heater box, if you're into that kind of thing.  It is fully restored (see earlier post) and everything but the water connection is done and working.
• Get the reverse light working.
• Install a horn.
• Dyno and refine map.  The existing map works just fine, but you could probably get another 20-30HP.
• Maybe install new door seals.  The current ones are pretty dry, but they've withstood plenty of Seattle rain without leaks now that the doors are sealed tight (see earlier posts).

Will you ship it?
Sure, if you make the arrangements for pickup at my house.

Want to trade me for...?
No, thanks.  There are plenty of things that would tempt me, but I must be strong!

Receipts for work at Cantrell

3rd gear pull on off(!) ramp

Couldn't really wind it up since residential streets were looming, but my passenger seemed to enjoy the little blip...  The clicking noise is my wedding ring hitting the cell phone.  :)

Door panels finished!

Oh, what a pain.  I finally got it smooth and shiny!  Happily, I've now become skilled enough at applying the epoxy paint that I think I might give the hood a coat as well.  Once you get used to it, it isn't so bad.  Getting used to it took 3 coats.  :(

updated roll cage

Updating the blog with some work from last year at Cantrell Motorsports.

We modularized the roll bar to make it easier to get in and out.  Also, now all of the bolt-in points have pads welded into the frame.  The whole thing is powdercoated silver.

These are the legs that extend rearwards.

Harness guides welded to the cross bar and the sleeve where the two legs (above) bolt on.

All 4 mounting points for the roll bar have pads welded to the frame like this.

Back seat harnesses!

4 person race car?  Occasional kid hauler?  You decide!

I needed shoulder belts in the backseat for my kids.  Instead of mucking about with any of the different retractor schemes that others have tried, I thought why not a harness bar?  Obvious, right?

Harness bar.  The lower belt connections go into the stock locations with eye-bolts and clip-on belt hardware.

 Added bonus - massively rigid rear bracing (not that it needed it with the shock tower brace and battery tray welded in place).

Hard to see in this light, but the two upright portions of the harness bar are visible and you can also see the belts attached to the horizontal portion through the window.  The key to the right of the battery is a master kill switch.